Method of manufacturing shoes



Get. 9, 1934. K. KILBURN METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES Filed April 1932 Patented Oct. 9, 1934 UNITED STATES 1,976,023 METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SHOES Karl Kilburn, Boston,

Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson,

a corporation of New Mass, assignor to United N. J Jersey Application April 4, 1932, Serial No. 603,056

12 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of manufacturing shoes and is illustrated herein in connection with the manufacture of cement-lasted compo shoes.

One of the well-known methods of cementlasting shoes, disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,847,235, granted March 1, 1932, on an application filed in the name of Pasquale Colella, is characterized by the stitching together of the free marginal portions of the various layers of the upper materials, including the lining, after the pulling-over operation but before the lasting, so that when the lining is secured in side-lasted relation to the insole with a suitable ee- 15 ment the upper as a whole will be so held and the possibility of wrinkles in the lining will be minimized. When shoes lasted in this fashion are provided with cement-attached outsoles there is danger of the stitching, by which marginal portions of the layers of the upper are held together,

being damaged by the roughening operation performed on the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper, usually with a rotary wire brush, to prepare it for the reception of the sole-attaching cement. Such damage to the stitching is likely to permit the layers of the upper to separate, often releasing the lasting tension and permitting the upper leather to pull out of place and wrinkle and permitting the insole and lining of the finished shoe to move relatively to the outer layer of the shoe upper. Similarly, when the uppers of compo shoes are secured in lasted relation by staples driven through the upper and into the insole and anchored in the insole without passing completely therethrough, there is danger that some of the staples will be loosened or pulled out if the roughing operation performed upon the overlasted margin of the shoe upper is done carelessly or by an unskilled operator.

It is an object of the present invention to eliminate all danger of damage by the wire brush or other implement with which the overlasted marginal portion of the upper is roughened to fastenings by which the upper and lining are secured together. This is accomplished, as herein disclosed, by removing the finished surface from the marginal portion of the shoe upper before the lasting and preferably before the assembling of the shoe. This may be done, for example, by skiving the marginal portion of the upper or by roughening it over a width no greater than and preferably somewhat less than the width of the lasting allowance so that the roughening operation performed after the lasting, if any further roughening is needed, is limited to a narrow area between the previously treated portion and the edge 5 of the shoe bottom. Since this area is separated a short distance from the stitching the roughening can be performed without danger of damaging the stitches.

Similarly, it is an object of the invention to obviate all danger of the loosening or pulling out, during the performance of the upper roughening operation, of staples or other fastenings by which the upper has been secured in lasted relation.

This also may be done, in accordance with my invention, by skiving, roughening, or otherwise removing the finish from the marginal portion of the outer surface of the upper prior to the lasting operation so that whatever roughening, if any, is

necessary after the lasting will be confined to a narrow area at or adjacent to the edge of the shoe bottom and which is free from lasting fastenings.

In some kinds of work, moreover, with uppers cut from accurately drafted patterns, my invention provides for the complete elimination of all roughening after the lasting operation and thereby obviates the difiiculties encountered, particularly when roughening the upper at the shank portion of the shoe, in determining the outer margin of the area to be roughened.

With the above and other objects in view the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the vamp portion of a shoe upper the margin of which has been skived in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates a shoe in the process of manufacture in accordance with my invention, after the upper has been pulled over and the free marginal portions of the upper and lining stitched together.

Fig. 3 is a transverse sectionalview of a shoe in process of manufacture in accordance with my invention, showing the condition after the performance of the lasting operation;

Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the shoe illustrating the bottom roughening operation;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view through the forepart of the finished shoe.

In manufacturing shoes as illustrated herein the marginal portion of the shoe upper 10 is skived, as illustrated at 12, over a width somewhat less than the lasting allowance. I This may be done either before or after the various parts of which the upper is made are stitched together. Thus Fig. 1 illustrates a vamp 14 which will be stitched to quarters 16 and to a lining 18 to make the ball line and the shank portion is lasted with staples, as indicated in Fig. 4 (inserted, for example, with the aid of a side lasting machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,815,295, granted July 21, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu, in such a manner that they are anchored in without passing completely through the insole), the skiving may also advantageously extend rearwardly to the breast line, regardless of whether the skiving operation is performed before or after the pieces of the upper are stitched together.

An insole 24 and the upper 10 are assembled upon a last 26 and the toe portion of the upper pulled over in the usual manner and secured in pulled-over relation by tacks 28, as shown in Fig. 2. Then the free marginal portions of the upper and lining are secured together at the sides of the shoe by stitching 30. Cement is then applied to the united margins of the upper at the sides of the shoe and, the cement 'being in appropriate condition, the upper is worked into lasted relation to the insole and last and is caused to adhere to the insole by the cement. This op eration may be performed in accordance with i any of the known commercial practices used in cement side lasting. The cement lasting may be done at the shank as well as at the forepart of the shoe or, as previously mentioned, the shank portion may be secured in lasted relation by staples, as illustrated at 32 in Fig. 4.

The toe portion of the shoe may be lasted in any preferred manner. For example, it may be cement lasted with the aid of the toe plate or binder disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,894,678, granted January 17, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Joseph Fausse. The heel seat portion also may be lasted in accordance with any suitable practice and is illustrated herein as secured in lasted relation by tacks 36. After the lasting operation is completed any surplus upper material may be trimmed off.

As shown in Fig. 4, both the staples 32 and the stitching 30 pass through the skived portion of the upper and are located in the shoe bottom a substantial distance from the margin of the skived portion so that when the upper is roughened, as indicated at 34 in Fig. 4, for example by means of a rotary wire brush, it will not be necessary to bring the stitching 30 or staples 32.close to the roughening implement and all danger of damaging the stitches or loosening the staples is obyiated.

The bottom of the shoe interiorly of the overlasted portion of the upper is filled, as indicated at '38 in Fig. 5, and a suitably prepared outsole 40 cement-attached to the shoe bottom in the usual way. Thus the overlasted marginal portion of the shoe upper 10 may be coated with pyroxylin cement which is allowed to dry. The marginal portion of the sole 40, reduced in thickness if desired, particularly at the shank portion, is roughened and also given a coating of pyroxylin cement. The cement on the shoe parts is allowed to dry. It is than activated by applying a suitable softener to one or both of the shoe parts after which the sole and the shoe are brought together in the desired relation and are placed under pressure and held while the cement is setting. This may be done, for example, with the aid of a cement sole attaching machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,897,105, granted February 14, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Milton H.

Ballard.

It is also within the scope of my invention to remove the finish from the marginal portion of the upper leather by a roughening operation instead of by skiving, or in any other suitable way, provided that the operation is performed before the lasting of the shoe, and Fig. 1 may be regarded as representing the vamp portion of a shoe upper so treated.

Having thus described my inventionwhat I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

' 1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises removing the finish from the marginal portion of the material of a shoe upper over a width somewhat less than the lasting allowance prior to the assembling of the shoe, assembling the upper upon a last, working the lasting allowance into lasted position over the last bottom and securing it in lasted position, roughening the surface of the portion of the upper between the edge of the last bottom and the portion of the surface from which the finish was previously removed, and attaching a sole to the shoe with cement.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises skiving the marginal portion of the upper before the lasting operation, thereafter working the upper into lasted position over an insole assembled upon a last, securing the upper in lasted position by fastenings driven through the skived portion of the upper and into the insole, roughening the surface of the portion of the upper between the skived portion and the edge of the last bottom, and attaching an outfrom the portion of the upper between the portion previously operated on and the edge of the last bottom.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises skiving the marginal portion .of the lasting allowance of a shoe upper, assembling the upper and an insole upon a last, lastingv the upper and securing it in lasted position to the insole by staples inserted through the skived portion of the upper, roughening the surface of the material of the upper between the skived portion and the edge of the last bottom, and cementattaching an outsole to the skived androughened portions of the. upper.

'5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing cement-lasted compo shoes in which the free margins of the layers of an upper comprising an outer layer and a lining are secured by .fastenings' inserted therethrough after the pulling-over operation but prior to the lasting opthe fastening-receiving portion of the outer surface of the upper prior to the assembling of the shoe, assembling the upper upon a last, lasting the upper over the bottom of the last, and then removing the finish from the portion of the upper between that previously operated upon and the edge of the shoe bottom.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing cement-lasted compo shoes in which the free margins of the upper comprising a leather outer layer, a doubler and a lining are stitched together after the pulling-over operation and prior to the lasting operation, characterized by roughening the stitch-receiving and adjacent portion of the outer surface of the lasting allowance of the upper leather prior to the assembling of the upper upon a last, then assembling the upper upon the last, working the lasting allowance of the upper into lasted pos'tion over the last bottom, and thereafter roughening the portion of the upper leather between the previously roughened portion and the edge of the last bottom.

'7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing cement-lasted compo shoes in which the free margins of the layers of an upper comprising an cutter layer of leather and a lining are stitched together after the pulling-over operation but prior to the lasting operation, which comprises skiving the stitch-receiving and adjacent portion of the outer surface of the lasting allowance of the upper leather prior to the assembling of the upper upon a last, then assembling the upper upon a last, working the upper into lasted position over the last bottom, and then roughening the portion of the lasting allowance between the skived portion and the edge of the last bottom.

8. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises removing the finished surface from the marginal portion of the leather of a shoe upper over a width not exceeding the lasting allowance, assembling the upper, including its lining, and an insole upon a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe of the shoe, securing the free margins of the upper leather and the lining together by fastenings extending through the portion of the upper leather from which the finish has been removed, thereafter working the upper into lasted relation and securing it to the insole with cement, removing the finished surface between the area from which the finished surface had previously been removed and the edge of the shoe bottom, and cementattaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

9. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises removing the finished surface from the marginal portion of the leather of a shoe upper over a width not exceeding the lasting allowance, assembling the upper, including its lining, and an insole upon a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe of the shoe, securing the free margins of the upper leather and lining together by fastenings inserted through skived portion of the upper leather,

the portion of the upper leather from which the finish has been removed, thereafter working the upper into lasted relation and securing it to the insole with cement, roughening the portion of the upper between the portion from which the finish was previously removed and the edge of the shoe bottom, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

10. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises roughening the marginal portion of the leather of a shoe upper and thereby removing the finished surface of the leather over a width not exceeding the lasting allowance at the sides of the shoe, assembling the upper, including its lining, and an insole upon a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe of the shoe, securing the free margins of the upper leather and. lining together by stitches inserted through the thereafter working the upper into lasted relation and securing it to the insole with cement, roughening the area between the previously roughened portion and the edge of the shoe bottom, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

11. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises removing the finished surface from the marginal portion of the leather of a shoe upper at the sides of the shoe over a width less than the lasting allowance, assembling the upper, including its lining, and an insole upon the last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe of the shoe, securing the free margins of the upper leather and lining together by stitches inserted through the portion of the upper leather from which the finished surface has been removed, thereafter working the upper into lasted relation and securing it to the insole with cement, roughening the portion of the overlasted margin of the upper leather which lies between the portion from which the finished surface has been removed and the edge of the shoe bottom, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

12. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises skiving the marginal portion of the leather of a shoe upper and thereby removing the finished surface of the leather over a width less than the lasting allowance at the sides of the upper, including its lining, and an insole upon a last, pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation at the toe of the shoe, securing the free margins of the upper leather and lining together by stitches inserted through the skived portion of the upper leather, thereafter working the upper into lasted relation and securing it to the insole with cement, roughening the portion of the overlasted margin of the upper leather which lies between the skived portion and the edge of the shoe bottom, and cement-attaching an outsole to the shoe bottom.

KARL KILBURN.

shoe, assembling the 

